How far back in years to go on houses? 5-10years? (Dallas: to rent, HOA)

[BigDGeek]

Originally Posted by Ralph_Kirk

"Too close" works out to be anywhere under the leaf canopy, because that's at least how far the roots will extend.

My trees are planted by the sidewalk/street/rear of the property, not next to the house.

What is the reason pier/pile construction isn't the norm for new houses in DFW? Short-sighted cost considerations?

$$$.

[mikestrong]

I know the house my ex now has, was 2800 sqft built in the 90's and has electric bill of around 600 a month from May to Sept. The same size house my company builds is about 140 a month average. Older houses that have not been updated will cost a lot in utilities. NOW, if the widows, AC, has been changed, more insulation has been put in, and a radiant barrier sprayed in then that's a different story.

[BigDGeek]

Originally Posted by mikestrong

I know the house my ex now has, was 2800 sqft built in the 90's and has electric bill of around 600 a month from May to Sept. The same size house my company builds is about 140 a month average. Older houses that have not been updated will cost a lot in utilities. NOW, if the widows, AC, has been changed, more insulation has been put in, and a radiant barrier sprayed in then that's a different story.

My electric bills never go over $200 a month in summer unless my AC is having problems. My house was built in 1957. I had new windows installed in 2010. No radiant barrier, AC unit itself is not brand-new and is a 13 SEER (I think), and there's not nearly enough insulation in the attic (though that is more of an issue in winter). I have a gas hot water heater but no other gas appliances. The house is 1820 sq ft and I keep the AC at 80F in summer. Heat doesn't bother me that much.

I guess my bills would be much higher if I kept my house as cold as some people do in summer, but I am uncomfortable if the temp indoors is lower than 78F. I don't get people who put it down at 68F. I'd FREEZE.

[kidicarus89]

I'll likely be buying a home in 2 years' time, and I'll definitely look somewhere like Richardson, where I'd have the laidback feel of a suburb, but close enough to the city center and DART. From my experience buying in new development tends to put you near congestion and younger homebuyers who don't care about maintaining their property.

[mikestrong]

Originally Posted by BigDGeek

My electric bills never go over $200 a month in summer unless my AC is having problems. My house was built in 1957. I had new windows installed in 2010. No radiant barrier, AC unit itself is not brand-new and is a 13 SEER (I think), and there's not nearly enough insulation in the attic (though that is more of an issue in winter). I have a gas hot water heater but no other gas appliances. The house is 1820 sq ft and I keep the AC at 80F in summer. Heat doesn't bother me that much.

I guess my bills would be much higher if I kept my house as cold as some people do in summer, but I am uncomfortable if the temp indoors is lower than 78F. I don't get people who put it down at 68F. I'd FREEZE.

New windows are a huge thing, plus a one story is cheaper to cool. I think people do have a tendency to keep house to cool. Im cheap. I keep my place at 80 during the day when im not home during the summer.

[BigDGeek]

Originally Posted by kidicarus89

I'll likely be buying a home in 2 years' time, and I'll definitely look somewhere like Richardson, where I'd have the laidback feel of a suburb, but close enough to the city center and DART. From my experience buying in new development tends to put you near congestion and younger homebuyers who don't care about maintaining their property.

I think a lot of them think that they don't have to maintain the property because it's brand-new. I dunno. I prefer the feel of my neighborhood in Richardson to newer developments north of here. It just feels more....homey.

Originally Posted by mikestrong

New windows are a huge thing, plus a one story is cheaper to cool. I think people do have a tendency to keep house to cool. Im cheap. I keep my place at 80 during the day when im not home during the summer.

There's also the fact that my house has less cubic feet to heat/cool because it doesn't have high or vaulted ceilings. That helps a lot too. Very high ceilings are dramatic and can look really cool, but you have to pay to heat/cool that empty space. It adds up.

[MovingtoDFW]

I am looking at an older mid 80s home that is priced significantly higher than most (newer) homes in the HOA. If we proceed, we will do our due diligence -but being a first time home buyer, I am curious as to what are things I should pay attention to when considering a nearly 30 year old home?

Originally Posted by Ralph_Kirk

"What is the reason pier/pile construction isn't the norm for new houses in DFW? Short-sighted cost considerations?

Is it a given that a pier & beam foundation is always better for homes in areas with potential foundation issues? How much more should one factor into the price of a P&B home versus a slab home?

Thanks.

[Squirl]

Originally Posted by MovingtoDFW

I am looking at an older mid 80s home that is priced significantly higher than most (newer) homes in the HOA. If we proceed, we will do our due diligence -but being a first time home buyer, I am curious as to what are things I should pay attention to when considering a nearly 30 year old home?




Is it a given that a pier & beam foundation is always better for homes in areas with potential foundation issues? How much more should one factor into the price of a P&B home versus a slab home?

Thanks.

That's an interesting question. I think homes do tend to have similar foundations in the same neighborhoods and usually market comps are all about similar homes in the same area. So, I don't know if there is any real good answer to how much more value a p&B house gets in terms of selling price. I live in a neighborhood that was developed in the late 70's, with many homes build in the 80's. But there are still some empty lots and we have homes here that are still being built. Some of the new houses are on "engineered slabs" and most of the older houses are on p&b. Some of the new houses are also on p&b since these are custom houses and don't have a volume builder putting up several at a time.

But, the newer houses on "engineered slabs" do tend to sell more per squre foot than the older houses.

[Ralph_Kirk]

Originally Posted by MovingtoDFW

Is it a given that a pier & beam foundation is always better for homes in areas with potential foundation issues? How much more should one factor into the price of a P&B home versus a slab home?

Thanks.

From what I've determined so far, I would distinguish between a foundation purported to be "pier & beam" and one that has been built with a well-engineered pier or pile foundation.

Coming from a more northern state, I understand it by analogy. When I put in my deck in Illinois, I had to set it on piers that reached down below the soil freeze depth, which was about four feet (with safety factor for extra-cold winters such as this current one). The piers must reach below the level the soil heaves when frozen. This isn't an obvious issue with home foundations because it's a matter of code to put crawlspace foundations deeper than four feet, and of course, a basement foundation will always be deeper than four feet.

As I currently understand the situation in the DFW area, the problem is that the soil moves with moisture changes far more deeply than the the freeze depth issue, but the solution is the same: Piers or piles sunk below the level of soil movement (and that is very locational--ideally the proper depth should be tested on each lot).

So my current understanding is that just like sinking the foundation below the frost depth is the answer in Illinois (and is reflected in all local building codes) sinking it below the soil movement depth is the answer in DFW...except that it's not required by code.

I'm getting a lot of my information from this guy: Independent Registered Professional Engineering Consultant

[VegasMan_72]

Originally Posted by Ralph_Kirk

From what I've determined so far, I would distinguish between a foundation purported to be "pier & beam" and one that has been built with a well-engineered pier or pile foundation.

Coming from a more northern state, I understand it by analogy. When I put in my deck in Illinois, I had to set it on piers that reached down below the soil freeze depth, which was about four feet (with safety factor for extra-cold winters such as this current one). The piers must reach below the level the soil heaves when frozen. This isn't an obvious issue with home foundations because it's a matter of code to put crawlspace foundations deeper than four feet, and of course, a basement foundation will always be deeper than four feet.

As I currently understand the situation in the DFW area, the problem is that the soil moves with moisture changes far more deeply than the the freeze depth issue, but the solution is the same: Piers or piles sunk below the level of soil movement (and that is very locational--ideally the proper depth should be tested on each lot).

So my current understanding is that just like sinking the foundation below the frost depth is the answer in Illinois (and is reflected in all local building codes) sinking it below the soil movement depth is the answer in DFW...except that it's not required by code.

I'm getting a lot of my information from this guy: Independent Registered Professional Engineering Consultant

I'm sure this guy is qualified and as a professional engineer myself I would not question another professional engineer's judgement. But you are wrong when you say pier and beam foundation is "the" answer to DFW. DFW's soil is expansive clay (just like Las Vegas, where I have also worked). Post Tension Institute has developed strict guidelines and post tension slabs are very successful for resisting the shear and moments developed by expansive soils.