Krakow, Poland! Many people in Poland prefer it to Warsaw. Unlike Warsaw, much of Krakow was not destroyed by the war...so it still has lots of history. It has a large student population, is compact, has great nightlife, etc. It's like a smaller Prague that the tourists haven't found out about yet, but it's getting there. And the Old Town square is great...lots of activity there basically 24 hours. No subway, but the city does have some trams.