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Old 08-22-2016, 11:35 AM
 
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Up to now I've been using Gordon's Speed Zone to control the random spots of Nutsedge here and there in the lawn.

As long as you are proactive and spray as you see throughout the season does this get better year after year as long as you continue to treat it?

If you are getting it in flower beds can it be prevented each season with the use of Preen?
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Old 08-22-2016, 11:39 AM
 
Location: NC
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Yes, just keep after it.

Preen probably won't help. Preen works primarily on seeds when they start to germinate, and those seeds need to be near the surface of the soil. Meanwhile nutsedge has little tubers deeper in the soil, and is a perennial so the roots are somewhat established all year.
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Old 08-22-2016, 11:44 AM
 
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I have learned to not try and pull it out as it just gets the tops.

If spraying it with an appropriate herbicide, is it actually killing it at the tuber level where you should get less and less each season?


Quote:
Originally Posted by luv4horses View Post
Yes, just keep after it.

Preen probably won't help. Preen works primarily on seeds when they start to germinate, and those seeds need to be near the surface of the soil. Meanwhile nutsedge has little tubers deeper in the soil, and is a perennial so the roots are somewhat established all year.
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Old 08-22-2016, 09:33 PM
 
Location: Out there somewhere...a traveling man.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by luv4horses View Post
Yes, just keep after it.

Preen probably won't help. Preen works primarily on seeds when they start to germinate, and those seeds need to be near the surface of the soil. Meanwhile nutsedge has little tubers deeper in the soil, and is a perennial so the roots are somewhat established all year.
This is correct^^^Pre-emergents are for pre emerging vegetation not established plants.

OP you need to dig down with a weed digging tool and pop out the tubers. Spot killing with Round-up will help to a certain degree, you need to get all the tubers for 100% control.
If you were take a piece of paper and draw a circle on it then a straight line out a few inches then another connecting circle then another 3 inches or so and another connecting circle, you'll get the picture. Each circle is a tuber connected to the next one and the next one and so on. Each tuber roots out and grows more connecting tubers. This can go on and on forever if you don't get them all out.

Digging tool...
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Old 08-23-2016, 04:28 AM
 
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Is there any particular herbicide you would suggest?

If spraying it with an appropriate herbicide, is it actually killing it at the tuber level where you should get less and less each season? I



Quote:
Originally Posted by luv4horses View Post
Yes, just keep after it.

Preen probably won't help. Preen works primarily on seeds when they start to germinate, and those seeds need to be near the surface of the soil. Meanwhile nutsedge has little tubers deeper in the soil, and is a perennial so the roots are somewhat established all year.
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Old 08-23-2016, 05:59 AM
 
Location: NC
9,361 posts, read 14,107,382 times
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There are some herbicides that work under agricultural situations, but these are usually toxic to regular lawn grasses. Bentazon was one (Basagran). Also Image. See some ideas here:

HGIC 2312 Nutsedge : Extension : Clemson University : South Carolina
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Old 08-23-2016, 01:53 PM
 
7,493 posts, read 7,176,530 times
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Excellent information. ~ Thanks ~

" Nutsedges are very aggressive and persistent weeds that commonly infest lawns, vegetable and flower gardens, and home landscapes. They can be very difficult to eradicate and their control is likely to be a long process. Successful control involves both cultural and chemical management methods. "





Quote:
Originally Posted by luv4horses View Post
There are some herbicides that work under agricultural situations, but these are usually toxic to regular lawn grasses. Bentazon was one (Basagran). Also Image. See some ideas here:

HGIC 2312 Nutsedge : Extension : Clemson University : South Carolina
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