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Old 05-20-2012, 08:58 PM
 
Location: Seattle area
854 posts, read 4,140,043 times
Reputation: 527

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What Jersey said. That makes no sense. The Schluter system is well-liked but it's just a waterproofing system. The tiles go on top any way you'd put up tiles. I think the only difference is that they specific unmodified thinset.

Hope it's not against forum rules to link to another forum, but you can get a lot of great answers to these specific questions from the helpful folks at John Bridge: Ceramic Tile Advice Forums - John Bridge Ceramic Tile - Powered by vBulletin
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Old 05-21-2012, 06:04 AM
 
Location: Virginia
18,717 posts, read 31,070,580 times
Reputation: 42988
Thanks for the link. I guess I will have to spend the next week educating myself more than I ever wanted to on this issue, and interviewing more contractors.

Annoying that it's so difficult to find a contractor these days. Whatever happened to the recession? When I sold my house in 2000 it was easy to find contractors who did good work for a reasonable price. Now it seems very difficult. You wouldn't think that would be the case with so many people out of work.
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Old 05-21-2012, 06:11 AM
 
102 posts, read 601,618 times
Reputation: 149
I can't really speak much to the Schulter system, but the tile material you choose will determine the width of the grout lines. Most ceramic tile manufacturers recommend a 3/16" grout line. Stone tiles and rectified porcelain will accommodate a smaller grout line.
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Old 05-21-2012, 08:13 AM
 
24,832 posts, read 37,329,809 times
Reputation: 11538
Quote:
Originally Posted by Caladium View Post
Thanks for the link. I guess I will have to spend the next week educating myself more than I ever wanted to on this issue, and interviewing more contractors.

Annoying that it's so difficult to find a contractor these days. Whatever happened to the recession? When I sold my house in 2000 it was easy to find contractors who did good work for a reasonable price. Now it seems very difficult. You wouldn't think that would be the case with so many people out of work.
Those contractors went "belly up".

That is what CHEAP does for you.

In the end the homeowner has no warranty.
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Old 05-21-2012, 09:45 AM
 
Location: Virginia
18,717 posts, read 31,070,580 times
Reputation: 42988
Quote:
Originally Posted by Driller1 View Post
Those contractors went "belly up".

That is what CHEAP does for you.

In the end the homeowner has no warranty.
You make a good point. On the other hand I've learned the hard way that paying a high price does not guarantee work will be done well or that a company will not go out of business. In fact I suspect contractors who charge $$$ often go out of business faster because they have a harder time getting clients.
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Old 05-21-2012, 09:48 AM
 
600 posts, read 3,448,071 times
Reputation: 910
Quote:
Originally Posted by jerseyj View Post
.....Read the Schulter System web site and nowhere does it specify the width of the grout line. Wonder why the contractor would say that?
Because he's an idiot.

Replacing/repairing/remodeling your shower should be done ONLY by a professional tile installer with some history in your area. Ask for referrals from the tile distributors in your area. I know a few up in Richmond if you need more.

Do not call bargain/discount/clearance/closeout tile sellers. Do not use any installer that bills him/her self as a handyman, home repair service, or jack of all trades.

Never install ceramic tile over gypsum board in a wet area of any kind. Never. You are begging for mildew and mold colonies if you do. You are also asking for a sore head or cut feet when it falls off the wall and hits/cuts you. No, not "green board" either. There are substrates approved by the TCNA for shower/tub areas.(Google this) Gypsum board is not one of them.

My shower renovation (4'8" X 3'8" X 8'0") cost me $3,600.00 including 12 x 12 marble tiles on the walls (to the ceiling) and glazed porcelain mosaic floor tile in the shower, 2 stone corner shelves, a semi-frameless glass panel/door system, and I used Laticrete SpectraLock epoxy grout. I even got a new bathroom floor in the deal. This price also included all the demolition and disposal of old shower tile and mortar. My job was very custom. If you want a vanilla cone instead of the banana split, you should pay around $3,000.00 Maybe $2,500.00

Yes, I'm in the business, and yes, I know how to shop for this type of project, but the neither the installer nor the materials vendor gave me any breaks on price. You could've paid what I paid.

Use professionals.

Regards,
Streamer1212
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Old 05-21-2012, 09:54 AM
 
Location: Virginia
18,717 posts, read 31,070,580 times
Reputation: 42988
Thanks for this post--always good to hear from someone in the business who knows a thing or two.

Yes, I would love recommendations. I have called a few more people recommended by The Tile Shop--haven't heard back from them yet but hopefully will get a quote from at least one of them. Would love to have one more person to call since it seems hard to find someone who will bother with a small job like this.

I'm in northern VA, not Richmond. The western suburbs of DC metro area (about an hour west of DC), if that helps. Do you know anyone up my way?
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Old 05-21-2012, 10:23 AM
 
600 posts, read 3,448,071 times
Reputation: 910
Check out these websites for showroom locations near you, then call them or visit them for purchasing or selecting tile. They will have reputable and reliable customers (contractors) near you to whom they will refer you:

www.mosaictileco.com

www.besttile.com

www.morristile.com

www.daltile.com

www.americanoleantile.com

I too would recommend a visit to the John Bridge Ceramic Tile Forum.

Mods, please note: I have no dog in this hunt. Just trying to be helpful.

Regards,
Streamer1212

Last edited by Streamer1212; 05-21-2012 at 10:43 AM..
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Old 05-21-2012, 03:12 PM
 
Location: Seattle area
854 posts, read 4,140,043 times
Reputation: 527
I've also found great people on Angie's List. You get reports from people who have used people in the past, and you can see about what was paid for what kind of work was done. I pretty much only hire based on Angie's List reports now. Assuming you have your choice of contractors, look for the one with the highest scores AND the most reports by people who had work done. (An overall score that includes some "Bs" but with 20 reports would rank higher, to me, than one with all-A-values but only 2 reports). Somebody with 20 glowing reports is likely to do a pretty good job. You still do your homework, of course, but it really helps to narrow down the field.
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Old 05-21-2012, 03:21 PM
 
Location: Virginia
18,717 posts, read 31,070,580 times
Reputation: 42988
Glad you brough up Angie's List. This is what's throwing me--this guy got several A's on Angie's List. The reports were almost all one sentence long but all seemed to say he was very competent. Now I'm wondering if he got his friends to post the reviews.
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