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The second floor is almost always hotter and here in Florida many people have two zoned a/c units so they can adjust the temperature on each floor. When we were renting a townhouse the lower level was very comfortable and the second floor was about 10-15 degrees warmer. We just closed the a/c vents downstairs when we went up to bed.
You have to have two separate units. One for upstairs and one for downstairs with their own thermostats. One unit feeding both floors with one thermostat on one of the floors is never going to work properly. If the thermostat is downstairs, the AC is going to kick on and off in accordance with the downstairs air temperature. It is never going to keep the upstairs cool. If you were to move the thermostat upstairs, it may or may not be able to cool enough to cool the upstairs but regardless, it will be like a meat locker downstairs. Have a separate unit installed for upstairs and the problem will be solved. If you want to make them more efficient, install a door at the stairs so the two floors are also completely independent HVAC systems.
You have to have two separate units. One for upstairs and one for downstairs with their own thermostats.
Yeah, no!
There are "zoned" systems. Basically you can have one HVAC system that feeds both floors (or more). There are t/stats for all floors- they not only control the temp, but also send a "demand" signal to a controller that operates dampers in the main trunk lines. The dampers control the amount of air that goes to one floor or the other.
I built townhses that had three (really like 2-1/2) finished floors- one system, 3 T/stats, and the controller for the dampers. Worked quite well- The main reason for this design was having just one condenser unit (limited exterior space and noise); and limited space for duct (flat roofs, vaulted areas, open 2story area, tight floor system).
If the local utility does an energy audit, that might be worthwhile. There are various leak smoke pens which can detect leaks, but insulation issues will not be detected by them.
While cape cod houses are found today in VA, they were not the vernacular architecture for Virginia due to the heat. When built in the colonial era in VA, they were coupled with large foyers downstairs. The family would literally sleep in the foyer with the doors opened on both ends for ventilation. One could say Gunston Hall is a large cape, but notice the foyer's ventilation for summer sleeping: http://gunstonhallvirtualtour.weebly...rst-floor.html
(Also, notice Mason had his bedroom (chamber) on the first floor, not upstairs.)
One other consideration. Sleep wearing only cotton or linen, no blends; the same for the sheets and covers. “Your cloathing [sic] in summer must be as thin and light as possible for the heat is beyond your conception..." Stephen Hawtrey to Edward Hawtrey March 26, 1765 on the heat in VA.
There are "zoned" systems. Basically you can have one HVAC system that feeds both floors (or more). There are t/stats for all floors- they not only control the temp, but also send a "demand" signal to a controller that operates dampers in the main trunk lines. The dampers control the amount of air that goes to one floor or the other.
I built townhses that had three (really like 2-1/2) finished floors- one system, 3 T/stats, and the controller for the dampers. Worked quite well- The main reason for this design was having just one condenser unit (limited exterior space and noise); and limited space for duct (flat roofs, vaulted areas, open 2story area, tight floor system).
Well yeah you can do it that way as well but that is a complicated system to retrofit into an older house that already has a working unit. With the system you are describing, you are still in fact separating the floors into individual systems by using damper controllers and thermostats for each floor or zone.
In an existing house that has a working unit, it is much easier and cheaper to just add another small unit to run the upstairs.
I take it that you have an actual central AC? Which just doesn’t push cold air up?
If you do - make sure you have cleaned up the leaves, dust and bugs off of the outside compressor if you have a/c.
15-30 min job.
Simple job, watch YouTube videos how
Make sure the inside filters are clean, use lower MERV - like # 8 - so the A/C could push the air through the ducts upstairs easier.
Trace all your ducts- basement or attic? make sure the ducts (usually covered in silver foil) are not kinked - especially if they are flexible type. They hang them incorrectly - they get cut by the hangers or otherwise twisted?
They must be supported and straight- check where they turn the corners - the installer sometimes just shoves them - blocking the airway.
Make sure the dampers - if any (if you have metal ducts )- turned to “summer” or A/C - it should be indicated if you have that.
Whether you do or don’t have AC do the things below
Hang heavy drapes or bedspread or blankets over your windows during the day starting early in the morning after airing the bedroom - even if it is overcast.
The heat still radiates
If you have a choice don’t sleep on a foam mattress.
Use percale sheets or linen(flax) sheets only.
Dampen your cover sheet - wringing it well. Turn on a fan.
You might be even cold?
In fall AIRSEAL (Google it) and INSULATE the attic AFTER airsealing.
It will help
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