Please register to participate in our discussions with 2 million other members - it's free and quick! Some forums can only be seen by registered members. After you create your account, you'll be able to customize options and access all our 15,000 new posts/day with fewer ads.
Are your cripple walls are completely open? Any idea what the cost of materials were when you did your crawl space? I saw videos on youtube of people doing this and it didn't seem very difficult. Just time consuming. Most of my crawl has decent head room, but it's a little tight towards the front. I might consider encapsulating at some point this year once I knock out a few more projects I want to get done. Protecting these woods floors are my top priority.
Not sure what you mean by the walls being open...I had easy access to them as there were no obstructions.
I used Raven Vapor block that was sourced from a local concrete supply company. I forget who, but they were in Raleigh somewhere near Lake Wheeler road. From what I remember, the 1500 sq/ft roll and associated tape for the seams was approx $450. You can get thinner vapor barrier for less but I figured I wanted to do it just once and have it last a lifetime. The roll weighed ~300 lbs. The job took my wife and I about 5 hours but it can be done much quicker if you are not trying to mind 3 year old twins while doing the work Note that on the tall cripple walls I had to use a .22 cal nail gun and wooden slats to hold the barrier to the cinder block. We had painted the walls with a barrier paint and I could not get *anything* to stick to it enough to hold the barrier in place. The short walls were on the dry sides of the house and I basically just laid the plastic against the wall. No issues.
We had significant moisture issues last summer. Sealed the whole space for about $4000, vents sealed, walls and floor lined. Walls R-10 thermax closed cell foam board attached over poly layer (10mil). Band vents sealed with fire rated spray foam and GreenGuard certified R-19 insulation. Crawl door insulated and weatherstripped.
Floor sealed with 2 layers of 10 mil poly over a layer of 6 mil poly. French drain at low point. Supply line installed in HVAC ducts for conditioning of space. Combustion intake to furnace extended to outside.
We also run a dehumidifier in summer months. It doesn't work too hard since space was conditioned but we are consistently one of the most efficient energy homes on the report and this is a big part of it. That buffer below first floor living space keeps the tax on the HVAC at a minimum both winter and summer.
Is that overkill? Perhaps. Very happy with the work, happy to provide contact info if you need a recommendation.
I leave my vents open year round, regardless of temperature. I don't have any moister problems and have had no issues with the temperature dropping low enough to affect pipes.
I do this as well and after 3 years I have no issues with moisture. I considered closing them a few times over the last few years with temps in the low single digits a couple times, but never did. We left a couple faucets dripping and have never had a pipe freeze/burst. No problems at all in the summer either.
I always leave my vents open. Sure it gets a little damp but nothing serious. What moisture issues are people talking about and what can happen with these issues?
I thought I would bump this rather than start a new thread. I finished the gutters and directed all water away from the crawl. Crawl space is a little more humid than I would like so I plan to tackle this project very soon. I found a place in Fuquay that sells vapor barrier and plan to go with 10 mil or thicker. I would also like to run a dehumidifier. Ones meant for a crawl space are $1,000-$1,200, and there are ones meant for general purpose that can handle 70 pints are $250. Has anyone just used a regular one and ran the drain tube to outside? Trying to save money, but willing to spend it if needed.
I thought I would bump this rather than start a new thread. I finished the gutters and directed all water away from the crawl. Crawl space is a little more humid than I would like so I plan to tackle this project very soon. I found a place in Fuquay that sells vapor barrier and plan to go with 10 mil or thicker. I would also like to run a dehumidifier. Ones meant for a crawl space are $1,000-$1,200, and there are ones meant for general purpose that can handle 70 pints are $250. Has anyone just used a regular one and ran the drain tube to outside? Trying to save money, but willing to spend it if needed.
If you are still having moisture issues I would stongly recommend installation of a dehumidifier. The cheap ones are not rated for use in a crawlspace. Use in a crawlspace would probably void the warranty (if you care about such things. However, be aware that there have been some recalls on inexpensive units in the past few years due to potential fire issues. That said, I've had an inexpensive one in my crawlspace for 10 years and it has functioned without issue.
I thought I would bump this rather than start a new thread. I finished the gutters and directed all water away from the crawl. Crawl space is a little more humid than I would like so I plan to tackle this project very soon. I found a place in Fuquay that sells vapor barrier and plan to go with 10 mil or thicker. I would also like to run a dehumidifier. Ones meant for a crawl space are $1,000-$1,200, and there are ones meant for general purpose that can handle 70 pints are $250. Has anyone just used a regular one and ran the drain tube to outside? Trying to save money, but willing to spend it if needed.
I use an inexpensive one with a built in pump. I think Friedrich or something very similar to that name. I tapped into the drain pipe in my crawlspace for the output.
I used 15mil vapor block and it has held up very well. Bought it from a concrete supply store in Raleigh. You'll be fine with 10mil or thicker. Probably overkill but over-engineering is ok
Is it common to be deathly afraid of going into your crawlspace? The thought of snakes and a 2'x4' hole to escape from just horrifies me
Please register to post and access all features of our very popular forum. It is free and quick. Over $68,000 in prizes has already been given out to active posters on our forum. Additional giveaways are planned.
Detailed information about all U.S. cities, counties, and zip codes on our site: City-data.com.
Please register to participate in our discussions with 2 million other members - it's free and quick! Some forums can only be seen by registered members. After you create your account, you'll be able to customize options and access all our 15,000 new posts/day with fewer ads.
Note that on the tall cripple walls I had to use a .22 cal nail gun and wooden slats to hold the barrier to the cinder block. We had painted the walls with a barrier paint and I could not get *anything* to stick to it enough to hold the barrier in place. The short walls were on the dry sides of the house and I basically just laid the plastic against the wall. No issues.
