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You didn't bother to state what engine you have, I'm assuming the 2.0 Turbo. While on Wards Ten Best List, the engine has proven to be a little delicate and EXPENSIVE to fix. There's more to the oil spec than just viscosity here. The 0w oils will have a much higher Viscosity Index and you are correct, it's for shearing of the oil due to the extreme demands of a turbo DI engine. The base oils are a lot more stable than a 5w even staying with any synthetic based oils. Personally, if it were my car, it would only see Redline 5w-30 or Pennzoil Platinum 10w-30. The 10w oils are FAR more stable and have FAR less NOACK. Unless you have startup temps of less than minus 25F (-25F), the 10w-30 Platinum will easily take care of the cold startup. Since the Platinum is an EC oil, you won't see any gas mileage shrinkage and it's within the specs of the Suburu White Papers. I wouldn't push any oil in that engine over a 7500 miles oil change schedule. and if you can stand the cash, change every 5000 miles.
If a guy can't spring for oil every 5K, how's he going to spring for more expensive engine work later?!
Probably you don't want to scrimp on the filter either - usually OEM is good, I personally like Pure-1 for most of my rigs. The "Orange Can of Death" probably should be avoided.
Go with what the manufacturer recommends. I have never heard of dino being recommended or required. Manufacturers recommend viscosity, not chemical composition.
If you'd bothered to read through this ancient thread before bumping, the question is already answered.
At normal engine operating temperature, there is no difference between 0W20 and 5W20. They're both 20 weight oil. 0W20 is thinner than 5W20 at cold engine temperatures the first few minutes after you start your car. New cars spec it because it gives the car a bit better fuel economy. In these days of CAFE regulations, they play every possible trick to boost fuel economy.
Use the motor oil and oil change interval recommended by the manufacturer. The last thing you want is to have an engine failure and have the manufacturer refuse to honor the warranty because you used the wrong oil.
The question was " can i use 5W30 synthetic in the warmer months,instead of 0W20. " He said he was worried about possible engine shear in the warm weather, and frankly so do i have concerns. I'm not worried about MPG while causing engine damage. I can't believe you compared 0W20 with 5W20? Yes those are both 20W when warm. The subaru WRX uses 5W30 synthetic year round due to the turbo heat. In other words 0W20 is not good enough when things are hot. The heck with my warranty. I'm using 5W30 in my summer change today. You can grind along on your 0W20 when it's hot out. You can say " I got great gas mileage before she blew! " I'm not sitting in traffic 90 degrees out with that 20 weight like water. No sir not me. Use 5W30 and if she blows she blows. They don't honor the warranty i'll simply say " Call me if you change your mind! " And they will be calling. I won't answer anyone who doesn't like my post so don't bother telling me your scared about your warranty. Go play with your ipad. I work on cars.
I have the dealer change the oil in my C-Max and it takes 0W-20 which I think is fine because it's a hybrid so the oil may never reach normal temperature during my 4 mile commute so the faster it thins out the better
Funny back in the olden days you know the 60's and 70's 10w30 was used in most new cars and trucks no matter what area of the country you were in. Now when I see 10w30 is for warmer climates I laugh.
is it safe for me to use 5w20 oil in enginer when the recommendation has 5w30. I have come read review article of oils in each category but the same is not explained. Do let me know please.
is it safe for me to use 5w20 oil in enginer when the recommendation has 5w30. I have come read review article of oils in each category but the same is not explained. Do let me know please.
It's not going to kill your engine. As for me, I just use what the manufacturer recommends.
Totally weird stuff Mobil 1 0W40 "European Formula" run in my vehicle leaves a weird yellow-orange residue on the oil cap (none found in the oil drained) but must be some weird sulfur distillate byproduct of the oil heating up.
Totally weird stuff Mobil 1 0W40 "European Formula" run in my vehicle leaves a weird yellow-orange residue on the oil cap (none found in the oil drained) but must be some weird sulfur distillate byproduct of the oil heating up.
Sounds like condensation from short trips in cold weather.
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I think you guys all misread the question
