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What are some good cars for less than that amount, preferably in the $2,500-$3,000 range is probably what I'll have to spend in early February. I'm gonna be taking some driving lessons and getting my license sometime within the next couple months. I'm a 20 college student, so I would like something that is nice but that I don't have to put money in repairs every month. I kinda liked the idea of a BMW, but I'm hearing on this forum it wouldn't be what I'm looking for. So what would? I like Mitsubishi Eclipses also.
If you go for something older, like an 80's VW for one example, or 80's Toyota, Honda cars - your budget is very adequate to get a good example. If you are handy, and have some tools, you might be able to make a BMW 2002 work.
A completely different take would be to get an older pickup, maybe a 4WD one. Or an old Jeep, one with a carburated engine. I don't know Jeep vintages well enough to suggest a particular year or powertrain as better or worse than most.
To come at it from a 3rd angle, just one example is the 65 Mustang I saw change hands for right about $5000 here recently. An original car with the inline-6 engine and 4-speed trans, it was presentable but not mint - but cars like this are very easy to maintain and repair, if well cared for, you won't lose any money.
If you go for something older, like an 80's VW for one example, or 80's Toyota, Honda cars - your budget is very adequate to get a good example. If you are handy, and have some tools, you might be able to make a BMW 2002 work.
A completely different take would be to get an older pickup, maybe a 4WD one. Or an old Jeep, one with a carburated engine. I don't know Jeep vintages well enough to suggest a particular year or powertrain as better or worse than most.
To come at it from a 3rd angle, just one example is the 65 Mustang I saw change hands for right about $5000 here recently. An original car with the inline-6 engine and 4-speed trans, it was presentable but not mint - but cars like this are very easy to maintain and repair, if well cared for, you won't lose any money.
I'd love to have an old muscle car, but I don't know anything about mechanics, so I wouldn't be able to fix it up.
I'd say given your budget and lack of mechanical know how, avoid anything fancy. A truck might do fine given that budget even if you weren't looking for one. Don't get a BMW just to get a BMW because anything in that price range will not be desirable outside of classics.
didn't mention where you will be going to school ...
but the CSprings marketplace (and up through Denver) is full of 1995's through early 2000's Subie's.
In fact, we recently bought a 2000 OBW Limited for under $4,000. Top of the line for the series with the cold weather package and all the bells and whistles. In good condition, ready to deliver a lot of miles for our use. While this car's price point was over your budget, if you are staying in the Rockies snow belt area ...
I'd seriously recommend that you look at Subie sedans or wagons of the 1995-6-7 era with the 2.2 liter 4 cylinder engine. My preference is the 5-speed manual, and these are excellent performers in the adverse driving conditions that present in the region. As well, they are top-rated for accident protection in case you do get into an accident, and the insurance costs are nominal compared to other cars.
As for starting out with a BMW, unless you are a gearhead with lots of time to work on the car, your price point isn't going to come up with reliable transportation. And much as I dearly love my 70's 2002 model BMW's, they are a relatively crude car when it comes to heating, ventilation, and handling compared to my Subie's ... and forget about A/C, a decent sound system, or being able to use all-season tires in winter conditions like the Subie can. The 2002 absolutely needs top quality snow tires for winter driving, IMO, to not even come close to the winter performance/safety of the Subie ... and I drove my BMW's for years as a preferred winter driver in Colorado and up into the hills for ski trips.
For a newbie young driver, any car with a "sporty" image and perhaps some HP/handling to match will be pricey when it comes to insurance. Better to stay with more family-image transportation that has good reliability, modest acquisition and maintenance costs, and consider the performance cars when you are a few years older with a better budget to indulge.
Unless you need the hauling capabilities of a pick-up truck, they don't make sense for transportation use as a primary vehicle. More consumptive to operate than a fuel-efficient car, and a 1/2 tonner still will not ride, handle, brake, or have the comforts of comparably priced passenger cars in your price range. A 4 x 2 1/2 tonner isn't a great snow/ice vehicle, either ... even with all the usual tricks of weight in the bed for winter driving. Ask your insurance agent what it costs to insure, too ... license and registration costs will likely be higher than a comparable price point car.
Location: We_tside PNW (Columbia Gorge) / CO / SA TX / Thailand
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do this ^^^^^^^^^^^^ Subie for economy and FUN in Colorado weather
Upgrade? to a muscle / fix-it car AFTER COLLEGE and well established in a NEW Career. There will be plenty of time for 'tinkering' later. Get through school and into employment. once you get somewhat settled, then you can start the perpetual disease of accumulating STUFF (including muscle cars)
Sure is many to chose from, i'd forget about getting a poser car for now as for just $3K you wont get much.Save that dream for later in life when you can actually afford repairs on a Bimmer or Merc.
I'd look for a late 90's to early 2000's car thats been well maintained by preferably one owner and bonus points if the car is Japanese as they tend to be more reliable.Expect mileage to be in the 150-200K range,
I'd steer clear of dealers at this price limit as for $3K they are probably selling you car they acquired for $1K or less and just detailed it to make it look nice,Also the car will come with absolutely no history so you'd have no idea of what maintenance needs to be done which can turn out to be expensive if the timing belt was never changed and decides to break shortly after you buy the car resulting in a destroyed engine.Any car you are interested in do a quick check if it has a timing belt or chain,if its a belt get proof from the owner as to when it was last changed because if its an interference engine timing belt failure results in all the valves punching holes through the pistons.Chains are less problematic and usually last the life of the car,no replacement required.
Usually a timing belt replacement costs about $400-$600, a new engine could cost as much as $5000,so if the car is due a timing belt maybe you can deduct some or all of the cost of replacement from the purchase price.
there are a lot of good cars available in your price range. just pony up a few bucks and take the car to a mechanic for a pre buy inspection. a few cars to look at are;
1: 97-05 ford taurus. these are reliable, and reasonably economical daily drivers that you can pick up all day long in good condition for right around $3000.
2: mid 90s toyota corolla/chevy prism. these are neat little cars that also are reliable and economical.
3: early to mid 90s honda civics are neat little cars, but beware they tend to be a bit overpriced.
4: the subarus listed in other posts are good also.
5: mid 90s nissan sentras are also a decent choice.
83-85 Mercedes 300D Turbo Diesel- can easily convert to run on vegetable oil
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