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What "didn't work"? Car waxes just provide a layer of protection on top of your clearcoat. If the paint is already dull and the clearcoat is on the way out, the wax is not going to change much.
The difference in car waxes is mostly in their durability. The regular ones last shorter and you have to apply them more often. The better ones last longer.
If you post pics of what you are trying to change, you will get better suggestions.
Good question for the OP. What exactly was not right about the wax you used? And which liquid wax?
There is nothing special about the paint on a Corolla. There is nothing special about the paint used on MOST vehicles on the road today. The vast majority of people are served well by a brand name wax. If the surface is truly clean and free of dirt, the wax should produce a good protective finish.
Maybe the OP put it too heavy, which often produces streaks in the finish. Apply a thin coat and use a microfiber cloth to buff the finish.
I'll take some pictures. We have two other cars and have waxed them and they were perfect. Maybe clearcoat is having some issues but when I tried to apply that (Meguiar's Ultimate Liquid Wax)
and buff the finish there was just no difference in shine that I could see. Also it felt a bit sticky. I did not put too much for sure as I have used it on other cars with perfect results.
Meguiars Ultimate is a fine wax. If water beads on it - you'll know you did at least a complete job.
If it doesn't shine to your satisfaction then I suspect the paint underneath it is the problem. Clay bar will help remove dirt that doesn't come off with a regular wash. But I don't think it will change the shine much.
You may need to start over. Wash again with liquid dishwashing detergent. Clay bar. Then polish/repair the surface using a mild compound like Meguiars Ultimate Compound with a random orbital tool. Then wax again.
Meguiars Ultimate is a fine wax. If water beads on it - you'll know you did at least a complete job.
If it doesn't shine to your satisfaction then I suspect the paint underneath it is the problem. Clay bar will help remove dirt that doesn't come off with a regular wash. But I don't think it will change the shine much.
You may need to start over. Wash again with liquid dishwashing detergent. Clay bar. Then polish/repair the surface using a mild compound like Meguiars Ultimate Compound with a random orbital tool. Then wax again.
The key is in the surface preparation, just as with painting. Once the surface is prepared properly, the differences in appearance between various waxes and sealants is subtle to most, and the biggest difference will be longevity, which is where sealants really shine. The newer coatings like Opti-Coat, Cquartz, and C1 outlast even the longest-lived sealants like Zaino.
If you car is eight years old, and the paint has never been corrected, you're looking at a minimum of a clay bar followed by a medium+finishing polish, like Menzerna PowerFinish. More likely you will need something more aggressive, applied with an rotary polisher (probably best left to a pro, unless you're experienced).
There are far better products out there than Meguiar's or the other crap you can buy at the local auto parts store, but only detailing enthusiasts know or care about such things. If you want to learn more, you can hang out in the detailing forums at autopiaforums.com, autopia.org, and autogeekonlie.net.
I use good ole turtle wax as the base wax, then apply Meguiar's ultimate detail in the black spray bottle.
I have yet to see a better, deeper shine than this.
Bob.
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