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Location: Removing a snake out of the neighbor's washing machine
3,095 posts, read 2,041,802 times
Reputation: 2305
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Quietude
It's more complicated than a few pounds up or down, but I've improved many of my cars' ride and basic handling by differential pressures front and rear. There's an entire school that works from tire maximum load rating at maximum cold pressure down to the actual pressure needed for each axle's load. It's subtle for most cars, but I have one in the garage that runs 21psi front and 15psi rear. (Special case.)
There is nothing utterly sacred or fixed about OEM tire pressures except on very high performance vehicles running the highest tier of tires for which the suspension has been tuned - mostly Vettes, MB/AMG and Porsche where the tire was developed for that model in a joint program.
Well, I drive a 2011-16 gen. Hyundai Elantra with OEM 65-series tires on 15" wheels, and the door placard states 33PSI cold, front & rear. In summer and in winter, especially with the torsion beam rear end on these particular Elantrae, running those cold pressures make the ride a tad rough for me personally, so I like to knock a lb. or two off the rears to keep it in line and under countrol, especially on washboard pavement. Actually, the 2011-12 model years of that body recommended 32psi cold, so in theory I could set that all around and be satisfied(mine being of a later year in that run).
In general, the higher I run my cold pressures, the bouncier and rougher the ride in any car, and yes, while crisper, the steering is a bit too light and twitchy for my tastes. I prefer the centered weight and heavier steering offered by keeping the cold pressures at or around what is on those vehicle placards. Combined with narrower, higher profile tires(like the 65-series on this base Elantra), and the vehicle just feels like it wants to go straight and wander less than it would with 55- or lower profile series wider tires.
It seems like the growing majority of owners and garages and service centers are running pressures higher than vehicle recommended, or at Max Cold on the tires. Fine, let them enjoy their oversensitive steering basketballs-on-wheels!
Last edited by TheGrandK-Man; 02-07-2019 at 09:02 PM..
I fill my tires in the morning and I add two extra PSI so I don't have to add air all the time. All my vehicles have individual tire pressure display, which I find to be very accurate. When pressure drops below the door sticker value I repeat the process.
Location: The Circle City. Sometimes NE of Bagdad.
24,471 posts, read 26,008,272 times
Reputation: 59848
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheGrandK-Man
Actually, following instructions is not a "mole hill". It's something we're(supposedly) taught to do when growing up, or while in school.
Tire pressure numbers are recommended by the car maker and depends on maximum loaded weight of the Carr.
You’ll find the manufacturer’s optimum or recommended tire pressure for your car on a sticker in the door jam, or in your owner’s manual. Some models even place the stickers on the trunk lid, in the console or on the fuel door.
Recommended pressure is usually between 30 and 35 PSI. That number indicates the minimum amount of air pressure needed to support your vehicle’s maximum load-carrying capacity. Any less, and you’ll see poor fuel economy and handling as well as premature wear from too much flexing and tire overloading.
I'm still waiting for turkeydance's - and your - definition of it.
Ok, first-worlder...
Better handling is being able to screeech around corners without sliding off the road SOONER THAN YOU WOULD IF YOUR TIRES WERE INFLATED TO SPECS.
You get a softer, quieter, more fuel efficient ride, and the tires will last longer, if they are inflated to mfg specs. But temps vary and they alter tire pressure so you figure that part out.
ME?
I overinflate by 5 lbs mas o menos here in SOFla, and tire tread be damned!
They are referring to the fact many cars do not have OEM tires, so setting it to what the door said could give poor performance, or even be dangerous.
Unless you know the tires are OEM, then better to go by the tire than the door.
Why do people keep repeating this nonsense is way beyond me. If you don't alter the tire dimensions drastically, your door placard will show the correct pressure for your car. The pressure shown on the tire itself shows the maximum pressure this tire can safely be operated at.
Location: Removing a snake out of the neighbor's washing machine
3,095 posts, read 2,041,802 times
Reputation: 2305
Quote:
Originally Posted by motormaker
Tire pressure numbers are recommended by the car maker and depends on maximum loaded weight of the Carr.
You’ll find the manufacturer’s optimum or recommended tire pressure for your car on a sticker in the door jam, or in your owner’s manual. Some models even place the stickers on the trunk lid, in the console or on the fuel door.
Recommended pressure is usually between 30 and 35 PSI. That number indicates the minimum amount of air pressure needed to support your vehicle’s maximum load-carrying capacity. Any less, and you’ll see poor fuel economy and handling as well as premature wear from too much flexing and tire overloading.
Uhhhm - you're preaching to the choir by responding to me with all that.
Tell it to the 'MAX COLD'-Heads who insist on inflating to 44, 51, or whatever PSI the tire itself says - like most mechanics these days!
Last edited by TheGrandK-Man; 02-08-2019 at 04:32 AM..
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