Please register to participate in our discussions with 2 million other members - it's free and quick! Some forums can only be seen by registered members. After you create your account, you'll be able to customize options and access all our 15,000 new posts/day with fewer ads.
You are free to take a cooling off period. Simply leave the dealership and come back when you're ready to buy! There's no one there holding a gun to your head forcing you to buy anything.
Didn't you use the remote before leaving the dealership? No? Then that's on you.
I'll never understand why people call salespeople snakes and still buy something from them!
Buyer's remorse can be several things. For example, on a test drive you may not have experience with highway handling since it is all on town/city driving rather than highway. If the buyer's remorse is within reason and documentable, it should be given. Documentable being a key word. That way we don't see people who will buy a car for a night-trip and return it the next night... It can't be some interior something visible at the point of sale, rather performance but not quite quantifiable mechanically.
Ask to talk the vehicle on a highway! Not a difficult thing to do. Most dealerships will accommodate. If they don't, simply WALK AWAY. Be an adult. put your big boy/girl pants on.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stagemomma
I bought a used car this summer. I took at least 6 prospective cars to off site mechanics for a pre-purchase inspection before I made my choice. It only takes about 30 minutes and they do them all the time.
it was time consuming, but it did help me avoid some lemons.
This is called being a grown up, taking responsibility, and educating yourself before making a large purchase.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mkpunk
I did, I called the sales rep three times, no answer. Finally called the dealership and got through and it cleared up. It already happened by the time I am posting but it was an annoyance to go back and back to try and get the paperwork (I never got my copy of the lease terms), sign new paperwork (possibly the cause of the previous) and the working remote (which according to the rep, I had to pay for programming even though he "allowed the replacement to be on the house.") This constant returning was the straw that broke the camel's back.
Why would leave before they gave you the lease paperwork? That's totally on you. I would NEVER leave a dealership without the paperwork for a vehicle I just purchased.
There is an option in California to return a used car, even if it is not a lemon:
In California, car dealers are required to inform consumers about Contract Cancellation Option Agreements for used cars costing less than $40,000. These agreements, which cost roughly $250 for a car listed at between $10,000 and $30,000, allow the buyer to return the vehicle within two days if they have a change of heart.
"Used Car Buyers
Consumers who purchase a used car for less than $40,000 must be offered a two-day contract cancellation option agreement.
NOTE: There is no "cooling off" period unless you purchase a contract cancellation option agreement.
EXCEPTION: The contract cancellation option agreement does not apply to used cars priced at $40,000 or more, new cars, private party sales, motorcycles, off-highway vehicles, recreational vehicles, or vehicles sold for business or commercial use (does not include pickup trucks purchased for personal use)."
If you are interested, you should go to the DMV website, because there are a lot more details than those I listed, above.
This whole thread is probably making a mountain out of a molehill. If it's about programming a keyfob, most cars can program their own keyfob. I've done it before, but don't remember the exact details. You can google it and do it in a few minutes.
This whole thread is probably making a mountain out of a molehill. If it's about programming a keyfob, most cars can program their own keyfob. I've done it before, but don't remember the exact details. You can google it and do it in a few minutes.
You don't need to disparage the OP who titled this thread "Shouldn't all states have a cool down periods for auto sales?" This is not restricted to simply a key fob issue.
So, did they program your remote for you for free, in the end? I hope you were able to be a squeaky wheel and get them to do the right thing.
A remote is not an optional accessory; they should have just done it as part of the prep work. It might not even be the sales guy's fault; his management might have told him "don't do it if they don't ask in advance".
Worst case, it's another $100. Life will go on.
I had the opposite buying experience this past summer. Granted, it wasn't a tent sale. Just a smooth and pleasant experience. I didn't do any dickering, though, just printed out the deal from a car buying web site.
Best of luck and enjoy your new vehicle.
They didn't yet, the service was backed up and the part wasn't in, so I have to next week. No gas card because the sales manager was out. It didn't seem like the sales manager talked to the sales rep I had and he didn't seem like he had any remorse for the situation. Had I needed to pay for it, it would be $300 for the part and labor (yet I can easily find the part for $20 elsewhere.) Everything needed to be reprinted since the VIN was copied wrong and my street didn't have a street title at the end of it. I know this is par for the course with dealerships but it just seems like nobody wanted to be accountable or try to do a damn thing if making things right.
This whole thread is probably making a mountain out of a molehill. If it's about programming a keyfob, most cars can program their own keyfob. I've done it before, but don't remember the exact details. You can google it and do it in a few minutes.
I suggest you read my above response to another poster's comments. The dealership didn't want to be accountable to fix the issues.
They didn't yet, the service was backed up and the part wasn't in, so I have to next week. No gas card because the sales manager was out. It didn't seem like the sales manager talked to the sales rep I had and he didn't seem like he had any remorse for the situation. Had I needed to pay for it, it would be $300 for the part and labor (yet I can easily find the part for $20 elsewhere.) Everything needed to be reprinted since the VIN was copied wrong and my street didn't have a street title at the end of it. I know this is par for the course with dealerships but it just seems like nobody wanted to be accountable or try to do a damn thing if making things right.
I'd say your dealership sucks. There are good ones and bad ones - I've had a dealership screw up a sale to the point of a car I bought (transferred from another dealer) going missing - the transferring dealer screwed up and sold the car to someone else after I'd signed a buyers order. Made a right mess of the paperwork, but my dealer fixed it pretty quick and made it right, including shipping another car up. However, I won't buy another car from them. The dealer I go through now is one of the bigger ones in town - both Jeeps I've bought from them in the last 3 years have been prepped and ready to go when I got there to get it, with the paperwork ready to sign. All negotiating done over email with the out the door price in hand as I walked in.
Life's too short to spend hours buying cars and dealing with crappy dealers. Find a new one.
Please register to post and access all features of our very popular forum. It is free and quick. Over $68,000 in prizes has already been given out to active posters on our forum. Additional giveaways are planned.
Detailed information about all U.S. cities, counties, and zip codes on our site: City-data.com.