Quote:
Originally Posted by RobertFisher
Scanning Craigslist FREE section I see the first free wood chip post within the distance I am willing to drive. But it is from an Eucalyptus tree - the type I heard is weaker as a wood. So my same question for mulch/chips: Are certain types of tree's chips better/more durable than other types? Is it better to wait for a pine tree or even oak tree? (I have seen chopped oak logs for free)
https://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/zip...628614101.html |
How much land do you have to manage?
Honestly - after seeing your photos I think the only way you could tame your trail is have a swath of 6 feet mowed regularly - on the lowest setting - 6 feet - so you end up walking/using 3 feet of space where the plants don’t touch you by accident.
By staying away from being accidentally touched by the plants - you would avoid most of the ticks and the phytophotodermatitis described in the post above #28 by Parnassia - it is a nasty thing to have
https://www.mdanderson.org/cancerwis...159464001.html
If you put wood chips now - you won’t suppress the brambles and vines - you create a better environment for them - soil moisture and you won’t be able to mow over the brambles and chips.
Get the trail bushwhacked -so you would create a trail/path. Everything which will grow after bushwhacking will be tender - you then could mow.
Of course if it is an urban garden - then I would bushwhack the whole thing - then using mow to suppress vegetation.
Eventually you will see the light of day - and will be able to make a more permanent paths or just put the wood chips later - which needs to be replenished annually - another chore.
Mowing your path regularly during a growing season is better and easier - you would suppress the brambles by drying out your soil, you could even seed the tenacious grass - depending on your climate, sun, moisture - that would give you a better easier to maintain path.
60% of growth would occur in spring/early summer- so you may need to mow every 3-4 -5 days; second half of the summer it will be dry
enough to mow each 10-14 day or even less -depending how much sun and precipitation you have.
Maybe 1-2 times in fall, last - after thanksgiving.
You will have a neat path all winter long.
Next year - it will be so much easier to manage your trail- and no mud if you don’t have heavy machinery, especially on wet soil.
If you truly need to maintain 300 feet - then doing what I suggest is the easiest, don’t mess with anything else especially chips at the beginning - maybe later after the brambles are gone.
You might have enough fallen leaves on your land - to chop them with the mulcher - so they don’t get blown by the wind.
Chopped leaves would stay in place - you could mulch your path with them instead of bringing chips and trampling your land with machinery
Last photo is soil cement (I mentioned it upthread) trail topped with pea gravel - tamped into moist soil with the cement keeps it together.
You could attempt that later - after you tamed your brambles- otherwise you need to move earth, remove roots and organic matter, etc - too much work and not environmentally friendly - unless you have time, machinery and a place to put excavated soil
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