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Starting about 1970 the smog, safety, and MPG requirements, and high performance insurance costs motivated the manufacturers to greatly reduce the horsepower of the engines. The typical 302 V8 Mustang in 1968 was 230 HP, but in 1973 it was 141. The 350 V8 in the 1969 Nova was 300 HP, but in 1973 it was reduced to 175. Some of this was related to the cam, but more was the smog equipment, which can now be easily removed. Here in our state there are no inspections of any kind so we can replace the air cleaner with an open K & N, disconnect the EGR, and any other smog equipment, upgrade the carburetor to a 4 barrel or even go to EFI, and regain most of that lost power. It still won't deliver the power or mpg of the modern V8, but those don't have the same sounds and smells, and it's not all about speed. I had a 1972 El Camino SS for several years, with a 350 V8 330hp and never got a speeding ticket
in it (I kept the burnouts to parking lots).
Quote:
Originally Posted by leadfoot4
I agree, especially in the case of the Mustang, since it was derived from the Ford Falcon, which certainly wasn't a "sports car"....
You're overlooking one BIG fact. In 1972, the auto manufacturers switched from "gross" HP ratings, to "net" HP ratings. That's the prime reason for the much lower HP ratings. For instance, the 1971 Chevelle SS454 that I owned, had a HP rating of 365. The following year, the 1972 Chevelle SS454 had a rating of 270HP. Same car, same engine, simply another way to rate the power output (primarily to satisfy the insurance companies, by demonstrating that the "muscle cars" weren't as ridiculously muscular as they were being made out to be).
Yes, many people don't factor that in. Gross vs net hp. It seems like a big power loss when it really wasn't that much.
Well, the 1974 (I think somewhere in there) Camaro Z28 was not as quick as the school bus GM produced that year.
That was because they had diluted the Z-28 package so much, to meet pollution and gas mileage standards that were hastily thrown at the car companies, that it was pretty much just a "suspension and decal package" that was added to a base Camaro, with no engine upgrade. Previous editions of the 2nd Gen Z-28 had the LT-1 engine, which was a pretty stout street engine.
I think the OP has delusions of how great an old car will actually be. You step back almost 60 yrs to a 64 Mustang and you will likely be disappointed with a lot of the "feel." Loose steering, sloppy suspension and touchy brakes are all going to take away from the experience. That's why I mentioned the original Miata (easy parts/repairs, old but not 60 yrs old).
I like Porsche 911s, I currently own a new 2022 with another on order for delivery in a few months. I always loved the air cooled 80's stuff. A few years back I went to buy one, red/blk convertible decent miles/everything worked. Then I drove it.........the car's no power steering/brakes/poor a/c and 217 HP wasn't as great as I had remembered it. I didn't buy the car. Car did everything right but it wasn't how I remembered it when I had one back in the day.
Yeah... I'm 100% aware of how old cars drive.
And I already have a modern car, so that would kinda defeat the purpose! My current vehicle is a 2021 Subaru Crosstrek, which I'd still be using as my primary transportation. If I get a classic it'll be more of a "fun" car for road trips and days off.
Items such as loose steering, sloppy suspension and touchy brakes can all be either fixed, replaces or upgraded.
I doubt the OP would want a Miata. He would probably find it too small/cramped and lack low-end torque.
Same with a Porsche.
I'm a "she," for the record - but otherwise you're correct. I don't like very small cars, especially since I'm not a small woman. I am only 5'5" but with VERY long legs and fuller-figured. Doubt I'd even fit in a Miata, lol. Also, as I just said above, the whole point here is to get a CLASSIC. I already have a modern car.
An often overlooked part of this is having a place to keep it. It's got to be indoors/garaged. These cars don't do well sitting outside, even under a canopy. And it needs to be a large space so you're not bumping into the car every time someone enters the building. You want to be able to open the doors fully without banging the wall.
It's also important to have a clear & straight path from the street into the storage space. If you have to make sharp turns in a cramped area to hit the garage opening you're eventually gonna scrape a fender.
These older rigs tend to leak a lot of fluids as well. Transmission fluid, brake fluid, leaking oil pan, etc. Don't be surprised if you need a large drip pan to keep under the car while it's parked in it's space. And a $20 battery tender to keep the charge up is advised if the car isn't driven weekly. You don't want to be screwing with a dead battery every time you wanna go for a spin.
Well that's all going to be an issue where I live... and I own (with mortgage) this house, so I'm not sure if/when I'd be moving somewhere with a garage and straight paths.
But it's just a thought at this point, so who knows. There is a chance I'll relocate within the next few years, and just keep this house as a rental/investment property!
Location: We_tside PNW (Columbia Gorge) / CO / SA TX / Thailand
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gizmo980
Well that's all going to be an issue where I live... and I own (with mortgage) this house, so I'm not sure if/when I'd be moving somewhere with a garage and straight paths.
But it's just a thought at this point, so who knows. There is a chance I'll relocate within the next few years, and just keep this house as a rental/investment property!
If you can't keep a classic vehicle indoors when living in a marine climate, then it will be best to wait until such arrangements can be made. Sometimes a rental storage unit will suffice, but there is expense and security concerns with that. Rubber and vinyl degrades and will become maint issues (leaks, cracks, reduces value + adds maint and repairs). Brakes and moving parts (And fuel tanks if metal) will condensate and get rusty, adding to safety and maint concerns.
Maybe you can find a vintage place that will rent you a vehicle on occasion (that would be a great idea, as you would not have to maintain it!, and you could try a variety of vehicles). It's Worth the (occasional) expense!
If you can't keep a classic vehicle indoors when living in a marine climate, then it will be best to wait until such arrangements can be made. Sometimes a rental storage unit will suffice, but there is expense and security concerns with that. Rubber and vinyl degrades and will become maint issues (leaks, cracks, reduces value + adds maint and repairs). Brakes and moving parts (And fuel tanks if metal) will condensate and get rusty, adding to safety and maint concerns.
Maybe you can find a vintage place that will rent you a vehicle on occasion (that would be a great idea, as you would not have to maintain it!, and you could try a variety of vehicles). It's Worth the (occasional) expense!
That's actually a good idea... lots of places around here I could probably find rental classics!
There was a classic car show over the weekend, but sadly I didn't know until the day of (and already had plans). Drove right past it on my way to an appointment, and it was over by the time I was heading back. Oh well.
Well that's all going to be an issue where I live... and I own (with mortgage) this house, so I'm not sure if/when I'd be moving somewhere with a garage and straight paths.
One thing to note, is that many classic car companies will require you to have the vehicle garaged either on your property or at an acceptable alternate location. (storage unit, contracted classic car storage, etc). These companies typically do agreed replacement value policy at a discounted rate, with some additional requirements.
For example, you can buy a 1968 Mustang fastback and insure it for $30K for $500/year, with some restrictions on mileage, needing to be garaged, and how the car is used (no Home depot trips). If the car is stolen, you get $30K.
If you don't want the restrictions, you can insure it normally and pay $1500/year (or whatever typical insurance costs in your state), with no rules. If the car gets stolen, the insurance will offer you Kelly Blue book for a 68 Mustang which is peanuts and you'll have to argue it's value.
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