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Old 07-26-2011, 06:28 PM
 
Location: Mountains of middle TN
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I just posted the housebreaking directions from Viral and asked if the Mods would sticky it. Please go read that. It's in detail.
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Old 08-09-2011, 05:03 PM
 
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http://www.city-data.com/forum/dogs/...ing-puppy.html

This is the link about training a puppy

I put a permanent link on the 1st post in the chat thread
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Old 08-11-2011, 02:57 AM
 
Location: In the middle...
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Here are two products to try...

Dog Housetraining: Pee Post

Dog Housetraining Aids: Hydrant Scent Attractant

Puppy Housetraining Supplies: Housebreaking Aids and Piddle Pads

As you know a puppy can hold their urine / bowels for about one hour for each month of age, so at three months, he's good for about three hours. However, I would looks for signs of sniffing around as a tale-tale sign he needs to relieve himself.

Also, after eating, drinking, playing and sleeping. They usually will relieve themselves as far away from their beding (den) as possible. The exception here here are puppy-mill puppies, as they are raised in their defication and do not know any better as their mother was unable to teach them this vital tool.

Patience is the key when taking your puppy out, using key words and lots of praise when they do their business outside.

To puppy pad train for future travel or if you are away from home longer than expected, take a clean puppy pad, find a few blades of "used grass" that has dog urine or poop on it. (I know gross,) but this will encourage your puppy to use the pad, too. Once your pup has used it, make sure you clean it up, throw it out and clean and disinfect the floor, not to leave behind any scent to encourage any "accidents."

Hope this helps!

"From wet noses to wiggly butts, our dogs are not just dogs, they are family!" ~Luv-A-Bull.Denver
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Old 09-22-2011, 02:17 PM
 
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Hi
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Old 09-22-2011, 02:26 PM
 
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My English bulldog is 9 weeks old! Potty training her is a pain! She is crate training with little to none accidents! We take her out and she was doing pretty good at first but now she tries to out smart us and pretends to go and truest to run back in the house! She likes to potty on the carpet a lot! I'm a firefighter and my wife work 8-5 so were gone a lot! So she stays in her crate! I'm already considering getting rid of her cuz I'm tired of her peeing on the carpet when were still taking her out side! I read here where your saying stay outside with her until she goes? When you trying to leave for work you can't always do that! Plus get kids ready for school!
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Old 09-22-2011, 02:43 PM
 
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When we adopted our year old bull terrier last January, he was crate trained and never soiled in his crate, but would feel free to pee on the carpet when he was let out of the crate. I took him outside EVERY hour that I was home and praised him every time he peed (or pooped).

When we moved to our new place, we built a dog run with gravel, and I needed to train him to pee/poop in the run. Praising didn't work. We first were able to pen him in first thing in the morning and let him out after he did his business. After his potty smells were established, I gave him a SMALL doggy treat every time he did a potty in the run. I now can take him there ANY time (with a treat) and get him to pee immediately. I think treats/praise are much more effective than praise alone - even with potty training.

Oh, and I also taught him to ring a bell at the end of a belt, to go outside. Check out "Bull Terrier Ty" rings bells or gets leash on You Tube!
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Old 09-22-2011, 02:51 PM
 
Location: St. Louis, Missouri
9,352 posts, read 20,026,135 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Like2fightfire View Post
My English bulldog is 9 weeks old! Potty training her is a pain! She is crate training with little to none accidents! We take her out and she was doing pretty good at first but now she tries to out smart us and pretends to go and truest to run back in the house! She likes to potty on the carpet a lot! I'm a firefighter and my wife work 8-5 so were gone a lot! So she stays in her crate! I'm already considering getting rid of her cuz I'm tired of her peeing on the carpet when were still taking her out side! I read here where your saying stay outside with her until she goes? When you trying to leave for work you can't always do that! Plus get kids ready for school!

below is a c&p of the 5th post in this thread.... by far, the BEST housetraining advice i have seen.....

i am going to amend it to say.... my GAWD... your puppy is only 9 weeks old.... he is an INFANT.... would you expect a human infant to have control of their bathroom needs??

with your busy and full schedules, such a tiny young puppy may not be the best choice for you.... if you got her from a reputable breeder, i am sure there will be no problem in returning her.....

anyway.... here is the housetraining info......


First, your puppy is ONLY THREE MONTHS OLD!!!!

He BARELY has any control over his bladder or bowel at this point. You're expecting WAY TOO MUCH from him right now. Like human infants, puppies neurologically mature into being able to 'hold it.' Just as we don't expect human babies to be toilet trained when they're six months old, you can't expect a three month old puppy, with no control over the muscle that holds his bladder closed, to be housetrained, or even APPROACHING it.

Follow the instructions below TO THE LETTER and you'll have a housetrained dog. NOT immediately, or even within a month. The nervous system of the dog has to mature, and at around six months you can expect a lot more. But follow the instructions below EXACTLY (and everyone in the house needs to do the same!!!) and you'll have success.

And remember, NO SCOLDING: it makes the dog think that 'going' is bad and he'll do it where you won't see it (until you step in it). My method has trained TONS of classically 'hard to train' breeds, such as pugs, very successfully. And remember, if he has an accident in a place where you're upset, it's YOUR fault, not his, because you let him go there!

Here's the method:
Housetraining your dog (puppy or adult!)

The first thing you need to do is to remember that you’re trying to reinforce a new behavior. That means that the rewards for this behavior must be WONDERFUL. NOT crap from the store. Wonderful treats are poached chicken breast/turkey breast, cheese and steak. And you don’t have to use big pieces. Tiny pieces (about 3mm cubes) are just fine! I poach a whole turkey breast every few weeks, cut it into hunks when it’s cool enough to handle, wrap them well and store them in the freezer. When I need some, I’ll thaw a hunk overnight and cut off pieces and dice finely, storing them in a plastic bag in the fridge. One hunk will last about five days. Cheese is also popular, so variety is fine.

I carry these plastic bags in my jacket pockets in the winter and in a fanny pack in warmer weather. You HAVE to have these with you, or this method won’t work, because you need to reward as soon as the dog finishes pooping or peeing. It’s not going to work if the rewards are in the house.

Remember that you’re trying to change a very ingrained behavior. Some dogs like to feel certain things under their feet when they eliminate, like fabric, or newspaper. This is called a ‘substrate preference.’ What you’re trying to do is change this substrate preference, and to do that you have to make the treats SO wonderful that the dog will change this very well-entrenched behavior. Thus the chicken, cheese, steak.

I love clicker training, but this can be done without clickers. You just need a way to ‘mark’ the behavior you want to reinforce. Use the word ‘YESSSSS!!!!’ very enthusiastically – that works for some.

You’re going to need to GO OUTSIDE WITH your dog and the dog needs to be on a leash. Yes, even in winter. If you don’t reward IMMEDIATELY after the event (when dog immediately finishes pooping or peeing) and wait inside, the dog is going to be reinforced for coming inside, not for doing its business. So, leash up your dog. STAND IN ONE PLACE. Be boring. Bring a book or magazine for yourself.

Eventually, the dog will do what you’re waiting for. The NANOSECOND that the dog is finished, HAVE A PARTY – lots of loud, high-pitched praise, treats and running around. You want to make this memorable for your dog! You’ll find that once the first event is achieved, the others will come more quickly. Keep on treating (you don’t have to throw a party except for milestones – a milestone = if he only pooped outside but now peed, too, or something equivalent to that) until he’s good and used to peeing/pooping outside. Before you know it, you have a trained dog.

Regarding accidents in the house: NO SCOLDING. Just clean them up. If you scold you’ll get the dog to think it’s bad to pee or poop and he’ll do it in places you won’t see. Until you step in it. Invest in a big bottle of Nature’s Miracle or Simple Solution and use it liberally on accidents.

With young puppies, remember they have little control of the muscle that holds the bladder closed. This is something they grow into. Just as it’s not expected that a human baby is toilet trained at six months, don’t expect much from a puppy. Patience, patience, patience!!!! The nervous system in a puppy has to mature, and it won’t have much control over the sphincter (closing muscle) at the neck of the bladder until six or seven months. The same goes for the anal sphincter. Until control is achieved, both of these muscles operate on reflex: there are stretch receptors in the bladder wall. When the bladder is full, it sends impulses to the spinal cord and these, in turn, send signals to the sphincter to open and the dog pees.

In the stomach wall, there are also stretch receptors. So when the dog eats and the stomach is stretched, the impulses again go to the spinal cord, but this time the reflex, outgoing, nerve signals are sent to the anal sphincter, so the dog defecates. This operates in people, too – which is why some people rush to the ‘reading room’ after a meal – especially breakfast.
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Old 09-22-2011, 03:07 PM
 
Location: Up on the moon laughing down on you
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Originally Posted by MAK802 View Post
So we have a 3 month old English Bulldog, Porkchop, that loves to pee in the house. We take him out many times a day, during which he just will not pee. He has no problem pooping outside, but there have been many occasions where he would pee on the carpet as soon as we got back from the walk.

We didn't want to use pee pads in the house, but we finally got some, and he used them a couple of times. Now, he will pee pretty much wherever he is standing, usually on the carpet. It's getting to the point that we want to lock him up in the kitchen, which has hardwood floors, until he outgrows this ridiculous habit. Are we doing something wrong? He goes out regularly, when we catch him in the act we yell No and take him outside, but none of it is working. Any advice is greatly apprreciated, as our house is beginning to smell really bad!

have you tried steam cleaning the carpet?? He may be smelling his pee on the carpet so try steam cleaning it so he won't think your carpet is a potty.

It worked well for a foster who kept peeing inside our place



Edit: just noticed how old the OP was.
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Old 09-02-2012, 02:07 PM
 
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you people don't get it. he/she said that it won't poop inside but only pee inside! It's not baby/puppy/toddler or whatever contol issue. the dumb pup is trying to mark the house...own the joint. he does on ON PURPOSE!! the question is, how do you break him from that!
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Old 09-02-2012, 02:47 PM
 
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First off, some dogs take a while to fully mature their urinary system, particularly small dogs.

You also have to denote the difference between a "full void" and small amount, due to nervousness, being approached for example. It's a form of submission.

Crate training works well. It has to be small enough though, the point is they don't want to pee in their own environment. A bigger crate allows for a "safe corner".

Let's face it though. What do your dogs want to really , really do?

THEY WANT TO PLEASE YOU!!!!!! That's it! Focusing on the accomplishments, with excitements, love, and lots of pats, will meet with the behavior repeated when they connect the behavior to your love..

Make it a daily schedule, as much as possible.

Learn that dogs are "pack animals". It HAS TO BE. They will not go without someone being the Alpha. When the Owners do not take the Alpha Position, that's when the dogs do and many problem behaviors result. But, in the beginning, it's normal. They need to learn.
Dogs feel safer, when the Owner is the Alpha. Same as a child feels safer, when the parents are involved.

Using the same language for bathroom, helps. I've found this for all "named" objects, in their vocabulary, which; does, build!

i.e. Ours, morphed in to one long worded phrase of,"let'spee-pee-outside." Another example, is they know the word street. Since our driveway is made out of similar material, as our city street, if I don't want my dogs on the drive-way, I don't call it that. I call it the "street".

I have two-dogs. It's very evident that they all have distinct personalities. I have one that takes a more stern approach and one that gets the same results, from a simple strong stare..

The point is Saftey, approeiate behaviors, you choose for your dog. It's not to be angry, but you can't say "no, no" in your same, "here's a cookie voice!

Finnnally, holding the dogs, Lightly, skin, on top of the neck, shows dominance. This will have more effect for your dogs than any swat, spank, or any other unnesseary, unfortunate corporal punshiment.

I can't express how much CONSISTANTCY matters. ie. I don't let my dogs up front in my car. One day I was PARKED at a fast food place and I let her sit up front. TWO-WEEKS that dogs tried to squirm upfront! From ONE incident of backtracking! One caveat, "A one French-Fry equals a Big Mac to a small dog!"

Training takes time. But if you spend the time being consistaint, you will have a well trained dog, that is easy and a joy to be with. Exhibit the "feeling" you want the dog to imitate. As the Dog Whisper says,"Calm and Submissive."

We ARE responsible for how our dogs behave. It's our responsibility to train them, with love, respect and consitaincy.
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