Though most people tend to associate Cape Cod with its spectacular beaches, many visitors do not realize the Cape is also graced with inland beauty from Bourne to Provincetown.
There’s a good reason why Cape Cod is paradise for people who love the outdoors, and that reason is the miles of maintained hiking and biking trails that meander throughout our meadows and uplands and through Cape Cod’s many public areas.
One of the most impressive trails is the Cape Cod Rail Trail, 22 miles of paved surface running parallel to US 6 beginning just south of Patriot Square Mall in Dennis on Route 134, through Nickerson State Park, and ending in Wellfleet behind the South Wellfleet General Store. The former route of the Cape Cod railroad is a smooth and mostly flat surface providing bicyclists with a private universe where they can roll along merrily at whatever speed they choose. Additions are planned and other railroad routes on the Cape have been made into bike paths, including a newly paved 7-mile section of the Shining Sea bike path in Falmouth.
Hiking through Cape Cod’s conservation and parklands is still the best way to see some of the Cape’s most spectacular sights. The many walking trails of Cape Cod lead nature lovers and the casual stroller to every corner of the Cape, through woodlands, over cedar swamps, into open salt marsh, and onto open shorelines.
If you want to discover what it’s like to walk the whole Cape from end to end, try Elliot Carr’s Walking Cape Cod; it’s a good source and a good read. The Cape Cod National Seashore also offers invaluable trail information. There you can find maps, updates on trail status and condition, and information about which of the trails in the National Seashore are best suited to your particular interests and experience.
On the trail you’ll want extra water, a good pair of shoes, and most important, common sense. Tell someone where you are going and when you expect to be back. Now, grab your camera, and if you travel quietly enough, maybe you’ll see an otter swimming in the salt marsh, seals basking on the seashore, or a deer feeding under a crabapple tree.
Cape Cod has some of the most unspoiled beaches in the world, in part because of the foresight of President John F. Kennedy, who signed a bill on August 7, 1961, making the Cape Cod National Seashore a reality. Stretching the entire length of Cape Cod’s Atlantic shoreline from Chatham to Provincetown, the National Seashore operates ocean beaches through six towns along this coast. Called the “outer beach” by locals, the surf-washed sands and ocean rollers are bordered by a continuous sweep of sandy cliffs and windswept dunes.
Of course the National Seashore isn’t the only place to enjoy a beautiful beach. The Cape has more than 150 saltwater and freshwater beaches, offering something for everyone. Some Cape beaches have rough-and-tumble waves great for surfing, such as Coast Guard Beach in Eastham or LeCounts in Wellfleet; others are gentle and quiet, like Corporation Beach in Dennis or Old Silver Beach in North Falmouth. Some are broad, like Nauset Beach in Orleans; and others are narrow, such as Nobska in Falmouth. Some are rocky, like Town Beach in Sandwich; and some are all sand, like Craigville Beach.
The beaches of Cape Cod Bay, crooked in the inner curve of Cape Cod’s bent arm from Dennisport to South Wellfleet, are fast tidal flats that can be up to a mile wide at low tide. A long walk on the flats out to the water’s edge will afford you the opportunity to view many creatures of sea and shore life in the intertidal zone such as moon snails, hermit crabs, starfish, and horseshoe crabs. One of the best starting points for a walk along the flats is from Paine’s Creek in Brewster, but be sure to check the tide charts before you leave, or you might get caught too far out on the flats when the tide starts coming in (we provide more information on tides under the section on Beach Safety, below).
Cape Cod’s bay beaches are naturally calmer and safer for young children, and to the south of the Cape, the warm waters of Nantucket Sound play host to families with kids and the younger adults who gather at Craigville Beach in Centerville and along the Falmouth Heights Beach. The bays and sounds are relatively shallow bodies of water and warm up faster than the Atlantic Ocean. In the height of the summer, average temperatures in Cape Cod Bay on the north side are in the high 60s, whereas the beaches on the south side in Nantucket Sound reach the high 60s and mid-70s. Ocean temperatures on the east side linger in the high 50s, rarely getting higher than the low 60s.
There are also many freshwater lakes and ponds that have calm waters and small sandy beaches, many with picnic facilities.
Cape Cod provides visitors with the opportunity to observe the largest creatures on earth in their natural habitat. Nothing is quite as thrilling as seeing these enormous mammals gliding smoothly through the water. Often you’ll see whales in pairs or threesomes, either a mother and her calf or these two accompanied by another adult whale acting as guardian. The whales are visitors here too: they come to the area annually to feed on Stellwagen Bank, which lies roughly 6 miles northeast of Provincetown. Predictably, this city on the tip of the Cape offers some of the most appealing excursions, because trips from this location offer more time to look at whales and less time getting there and back.
“There” of course is Stellwagen Bank, an 842-square-mile section of the shallows in the open ocean lying in the Gulf of Maine just off the mouth of Cape Cod Bay. Long a prime fishing area, Stellwagen’s unique conditions and topography enable it to support a tremendous diversity of marine life, from single-cell organisms to great whales. But it wasn’t always that way. The shallow platform known as Stellwagen Bank was once dry land where mastodon and mammals roamed. It is believed that about 12,000 years ago, the bank stood well above sea level and may have been connected to Lower Cape Cod. Early humans arrived in New England about 11,000 years ago, and they may have witnessed the beginning of the final chapter in the history of Stellwagen Bank. By then, as waters from the melting glaciers continued to raise the level of the sea, Stellwagen Bank slipped beneath the waves. Today it is covered by at least 65 feet of water and attracts a wide variety of sea life, including huge quantities of plankton (tiny single-celled plants that float in the water) and many species of fish and marine mammals who feed on them.
A protected National Marine Sanctuary since 1992—the first area in the Northeast to receive that designation—Stellwagen Bank attracts the whales that migrate here because of its abundant food supplies. Many types of whales are found here, including finback (the largest), humpback (the most playful), right (the most endangered), sei, minke, killer (also known as Orca), and pilot whales (also known as black fish). Each species has its own distinct habits, but generally the whales begin arriving in this area in early spring and leave for warmer waters in early winter.
Although the whales may be busy feeding underwater at Stellwagen Bank, they’ll take time out to flirt with the whale-watching boats and will often voluntarily approach the boats and swim alongside and underneath them for hours. Humpback whales are the most popular species to watch because they are inquisitive enough to come close to the boats and have an engaging tendency to perform. Humpbacks feed for about six or seven months in the waters of Stellwagen Bank, which is rich with plankton, squid, herring, sand lance, and other sea life, and then leave the area, fasting until they return the following year from their wintering ground in the West Indies, where they breed and give birth.
Different species of whales feed on different types of sea life. Right whales, for instance, feed mostly on plankton. Whales follow the food sources, and whale-watching boats follow the whales, so when you’re out on one of these boats, you’ll often find yourself zipping around a bit until the boat operators get a handle on exactly where the whales happen to be. If you leave from either Barnstable or Provincetown, you’ll generally see whale-watch boats from Plymouth and Boston approaching from the other direction.
Despite the fact that whaling was, for centuries, an important New England industry (see our Historic Cape Cod chapter), it was the 20th century that brought some species close to extinction. Between 1910 and 1963 140,000 humpback whales were killed; today only a few thousand survive. The right whale, so named because it is relatively slow-moving and floats when killed—therefore the “right” whale to take—is practically extinct; researchers estimate there are now between 350 and 400 northern right whales left in the Atlantic Ocean, and those numbers are sometimes reason for dispute among those who calculate them.
In 1975, a group of schoolchildren took the first whale-watching tour on the East Coast, conducted by Captain Al Avellar of the Dolphin Fleet out of Provincetown. More than 25 years later, the concept of peacefully watching whales, rather than killing them, has caught on, and now tens of thousands of people leave every summer from Plymouth, Barnstable, and Provincetown to visit the summer homes of the whales. During whale-watching trips, staff members (often naturalists or marine biologists) provide commentary about the natural history of the area, especially the whales and their habitat. When the scientists spot whales, the excitement in their voices is genuine; for many it’s like encountering old friends. Those who have worked around whales for a long time can identify individual whales by distinctive markings on the flukes of the whale’s tail, underside, body, or head, and often know specific details of their lives, from their offspring to their travel patterns.
The most exciting moment during a whale watch comes—if you are lucky, that is—when one of the whales shoots straight up out of the water and splashes down again into the sea in a move known as “breaching.” After that you’ll be hooked, finding yourself telling your friends that they absolutely must experience a whale watch and offering to accompany them so you can experience it again.
The issues and restrictions that accompany whale-watching tours are far more complex than those for other types of tours. State and federal agencies have developed guidelines for the whale-watching industry that are based as much on safety for the marine mammals as for the humans. For example, boats are prohibited from coming within more than 300 yards of most whales and 500 yards of the endangered right whale.
Whale watching is now a $100 million industry in New England—an important part of the Cape’s tourist economy, having extended off-season business in areas such as Provincetown. Because whale watching begins in April many seasonal shops, restaurants, and other businesses in Provincetown open then rather than waiting for Memorial Day.
In this chapter we acquaint you with several of the organizations that conduct whale-watching excursions. Always call ahead to make sure the trips haven’t been canceled because of adverse weather or rough sea conditions. Reservations are a must in summer, and a good idea even in spring and fall—both great times to experience the Cape. Whale-watch tours run from mid-April through the end of October and usually last between three and four hours. Most companies offer three trips a day: The morning boat ride is ideal for families with small children, the afternoon trip is usually the most crowded, and the sunset trip is most romantic and beautiful, though it can be tough to see the whales at dusk.
All charters guarantee sightings; in the rare chance no whales are spotted, you’ll be given a rain check to use at another time.
In this chapter we explore the different ways you can safely get out on the water for an enjoyable day of power boating, sailing, kayaking, surfing, Jet-Skiing, or diving.
Boating for pleasure is well suited for relaxing get-togethers, family celebrations, or a carefree day out on the water with a friend. With the advent of summer, present-day Cape Cod sailors in pleasure boats follow in the watery wake of their earlier ancestors who went to sea to earn a living.
Whether you’re bringing your own boat, or plan on renting one here, you’ll be happy to know that each Cape town has numerous boat ramps, marinas, and boatyards, as one would expect in a land surrounded by water. If you are renting a boat, be sure you are qualified to handle it. Boat rentals are dwindling, primarily because of increased insurance costs; that should serve as warning enough that handling a sail or powerboat is no simple matter. Not to worry though—the Cape still has plenty of rentals available and a number of instructors to help you find the boating experience that best suits you. Another delightful way to explore the Cape’s many inlets and creeks is by kayak or canoe. Paddling is an increasingly popular sport on Cape Cod, and there are many guides and rental opportunities from which to choose—or bring your own kayak or canoe and launch it from one of the Cape’s many boat ramps.
Water sports have become the rage for those who like to push the edge of the watery envelope. The Cape has some of the best windsurfing beaches on the East Coast, and the surfing is superb on the Outer Cape’s ocean-side beaches. For an unusual water sport adventure, how about diving for shipwrecks in the untamed Atlantic?
Jet-Skiing is another popular sport—and also a red-hot topic here. Personal watercraft have been prohibited from certain areas to protect sensitive marine life and its habitats. If you plan to bring a Jet Ski or other personal watercraft on your vacation, remember that you are considered a boater and are required to follow boating regulations. We can’t tell you here what you can and cannot do on a personal watercraft, so we recommend that you check with the local authorities before launching yours. You’ll want to avoid areas that are habitats for shorebirds and marine mammals.
Also, whether you’re in a small personal watercraft or large boat, remember to keep lifejackets and first-aid supplies on hand. Carry emergency supplies, and make sure they’re in working order. If you’re cruising the coast, carry an accurate navigation chart, because the Cape’s sandy coastline can change with just one storm. Keep an eye on the weather, and don’t take any chances if you see fog rolling in. The waters around the Cape, especially along the Outer Cape and the Buzzards Bay and canal areas, can be a little tricky.
Cape Cod is one of the best places to fish along the East Coast. And it’s no secret why: It has more than 360 freshwater ponds and sports a coastline loaded with jetties, inlets, tidal rivers, and flats. It lies just west of the very fertile Stellwagen Bank and is along the migratory route for stripers and blues moving from southern waters to the Gulf of Maine.
Fishing has a rich history on the Cape, literally. The majority of the large homes and estates that line the main roads of the Cape almost certainly belonged at one time to fishing or whaling captains who prospered greatly from the sea. Of course it wasn’t always an ocean of opportunity. Remember, the folks who arrived here in 1620 had crossed the ocean with the thought that they’d be farmers in what we now call Virginia. The crops yielded by the Cape’s sandy soil were not as bountiful as these settlers had hoped, so they had to explore other ways to supplement their diet and provide a means of support. They soon realized that money could be made by venturing offshore to harvest fish from the sea.
Centuries later the Portuguese arrived here and added another layer to the Cape’s fishing heritage. Provincetown, where many of the Portuguese settled, became a major fishing port during the 19th and early 20th centuries.
Though commercial fishing still exists, recreational fishing has grown to a point that it now rivals its commercial cousin, mainly because of the many restrictions placed on commercial fishing these days.
In this chapter, we give you an overview of the sport, along with places to go and people to see to help make your fishing experiences memorable. A word of advice: Familiarize yourself with the many local regulations. The Massachusetts Division of Marine Fisheries (617-626-1520, www.mass.gov/dfwele/dmf) can be reached Monday through Friday from 8:30 a.m. to 5 p.m. It can provide current information about species availability and regulatory restrictions, which often change.
Fly fishing is especially attractive here, because of the Cape’s geography. Saltwater anglers go after striped bass, blues, bonito, false albacore, Spanish mackerel, cod, and fluke, whereas freshwater anglers find trout, small- and largemouth bass, and yellow perch.
Starting in 2010, to the consternation of fishermen who had enjoyed a free ride until then, saltwater fishing requires a saltwater fishing license. Freshwater licenses—the norm in Massachusetts—can be obtained from any town clerk and at many tackle shops around the Cape.
Shellfishing for mussels, clams, and quahogs is also quite popular around the Cape. Get a license and a clam rake or just a trowel and dig for your chowder. Types of shellfish available, regulations, and licensing fees vary from town to town. Contact the individual town for more information. Also, eels for family use or for bait, or seaworms for bait, are covered by local regulations, and permits are required.
To land the right fish, or any fish for that matter, you have to use the right bait. That’s just one more reason to start your Cape fishing at a bait and tackle shop. You may also want to consider a local guide. The sandy shores of the Cape change constantly, especially after a rough winter or during the later summer hurricane season, and an experienced guide will get you into the right place. See our recommendations later in this chapter.
Some visitors are surprised by the caliber of sports they find on Cape Cod. Yet Cape Cod is well known for its baseball, road races, golf, and even soccer. If baseball is your game, then you’ll have plenty to watch with the Cape Cod Baseball League, probably the best nonprofessional baseball league in the country, playing nightly from mid-June to mid-August. The Falmouth Road Race, along with other top-notch road races, attracts runners from around the world, and the Cape Cod Crusaders bring soccer to the peninsula throughout the summer. In this chapter we have listed some of the major spectator sports events in the area. For exact schedules and dates, check the sports section of the Cape Cod Times.
If you’re in the mood to play yourself rather than watch someone else, there is a list of locations where you can ride a horse, ice-skate, or skateboard. If you’re up for a game of tennis or bowling, we’ll point you in the right direction. And if you’d just like to work out, there’s a list of fitness centers too. For those of you who prefer to play in the ocean or spend your time on the links, we offer separate chapters on Boating and Water Sports and on Golf.