Cape Cod is a spit of land thrust into the Atlantic Ocean like a sandy arm, with Provincetown at the “fist,” Chatham at the “elbow,” and Sandwich at the “shoulder.” The Cape lies just south of Boston on the East Coast of the United States and is the premier vacation resort in New England.
For many longtime visitors the mere act of crossing either of the two bridges that connect the Cape to the mainland is enough to put them on “vacation time.” For those who live here the transition can be even more dramatic, and the Cape Cod Canal can serve as a natural barrier between the outside world, its pressures, and hang-ups. Although the clear line between here and there has blurred in recent years, the Cape and islands remain a welcome respite from the world at large.
In this chapter, we cover those destinations that reveal the Cape’s rich history, natural beauty, and unique charm. These are historic landmarks, museums, and attractions dedicated to promoting an awareness and enjoyment of Cape Cod.
From Aptucxet Trading Post along the Cape Cod Canal to Pilgrim Monument in the heart of Provincetown, interesting, fun, educational, and inspiring places beckon. There are hundreds of organizations across Cape Cod that offer the visitor a glimpse into the past or provide a better understanding of the Cape’s heritage. Among them are historic homes, sea captain’s mansions, and historical buildings, including windmills, churches, meetinghouses, and homesteads.
Following is a list of Cape Cod’s many attractions, including a walk through the pages of the Cape’s history as provided by the many museums and historic sites scattered about the old carriage routes of the Cape’s 15 proud towns. But don’t forget to turn to other chapters—Kidstuff, Sports and Recreation, Beaches, and Boating and Water Sports, to name a few—for other interesting stops along the way.
Cape Cod is a wonderful place to be a kid. We’ve met countless adults who say their idyllic childhood vacations here are part of why they return to the Cape—sometimes permanently.
Obviously there are the beaches. Everyone—not just children—loves running in the sand, splashing in the surf, building sandcastles, and hunting for seashells and beach rocks. Cape Cod kids have their own giant sandbox to play in year-round. But there’s plenty to do on the Cape beyond beaches, from bumper cars and miniature golf to nature centers and museums.
There’s so much for kids to do on the Cape that to detail everything would take a whole book. So we decided to simply offer a selection of what we consider to be the best and the brightest. We know you’ll already be planning trips to museums (see our Attractions chapter), so we reserved this space for places especially geared toward children.
Check out the Hiking and Biking Trails chapter, our Beaches chapter, or our Arts chapter for still more ideas for what to do with children on the Cape.
Also included in this chapter are descriptions of summer camps, sports clinics, and creative centers that have become dependable outlets for youthful curiosity and energy.
If you and your other half must get away for some time alone, babysitting services are available (see our Education and Child Care chapter). Most hotels and accommodations keep a list of reliable sitters they’ve recommended in the past. The Children’s Place (508-240-3310; www.capecodchildrensplace.com), a regional family resource center in Eastham (serving the Lower Cape towns from Brewster to Provincetown), keeps a list of recommended babysitters. And if you’re staying on the Lower Cape (namely Provincetown), the Council on Aging (508-487-7080) also offers a babysitting service. Senior citizens will watch your kids (either in their homes or at your place) for a reasonable hourly rate, which depends on the number of children and the amount of notice given. It’s not an all-day arrangement, but perfect for parents who want to get away for a few hours of sightseeing or dinner.
The Cape is beautiful from any perspective, whether it’s riding in a car or walking on a beach. But to truly experience its many charms, try switching viewpoints. Get out on the water in a cruise ship or sailboat; take a train that chugs through country farms and hidden fields; or get a bird’s-eye view from a plane or glider. Or combine exercise with education by taking a walking tour.
Here are some of our favorite tour and excursion companies, arranged by mode of transportation: boat, train, trolley, and plane. Keep in mind that most of these tours are only offered in season, and reservations may be required. We’ve given times wherever possible, but they are subject to change. It’s best to call ahead to check. Check out our Getting Here, Getting Around chapter for more cruise ideas.
Nantucket is the only place in the United States that is a town, a county, and an island, and in its entirety, both a State Historic District and a National Historic Landmark. It is a place where nearly half the land is held in conservation, and there are no stoplights, shopping malls, or fast-food franchises.
Nantucket may be an island , but it is readily accessible, so visitors feel that although it’s nice to stay for a few days or more, even a day trip here is worthwhile. The trip from Hyannis is a little more than two hours by traditional ferry or just an hour by high-speed ferry and only 15 minutes by air. It is especially nice to arrive by ferry and see the whole town come into view as the vessel rounds the lighthouse at Brant Point and enters the harbor. The first thing you’ll notice is the uniformity of the buildings, which are built almost exclusively of gray weathered shingle with white trim, one of the indications that construction and alterations are strictly monitored. In 1970 the entire island was established as a Historic District, which means that all construction must be accepted by the Historic District Commission, the Nantucket Building Department, and the Planning Board. Residents may grumble or joke about the stringent regulations, but there’s no arguing with the result: Nantucket has an incredibly unspoiled appearance.
Islanders have also taken care to preserve the land here. More than 12,000 acres—40 percent of the island—are protected from development, much of that through the Nantucket Conservation Foundation, which owns and manages more than 8,700 acres. History, of course, has also been carefully and lovingly preserved. This community, which has a year-round population of more than 10,000 (which swells to 56,000 during the summer and contributes roughly 70 percent of the economic base), maintains more than a dozen museums
The island is 47.8 square miles—3.5 miles deep and 14 miles wide—a bit larger than Manhattan, which is 2.5 by 12 miles.
As islanders, Nantucketers are keenly sensitive to the environment and their quality of life. They are generally friendly and good-humored, but if you sense that your car is not exactly welcome on Nantucket, you are right. Islanders are happier to see visitors arrive without an automobile, largely because traffic has become a real problem here in summer. The truth is, you don’t really need a car for a visit. It is very expensive to bring a vehicle to the island, and you can walk or bike just about anywhere. There are also taxis and bus service. Even if you are staying for an extended time, you can rent a car when you need one. You’ll find it’s actually quite liberating not to have to worry about parking, gas, and navigating the narrow roads. Nantucket forces you to forsake some aspects of modern life, and that is part of its charm.
Depending on the point from which you measure, the Vineyard, as Martha’s Vineyard is known locally, lies only 7 to 9 miles from the mainland. If you are riding on the Falmouth ferries on a clear day, you never lose full sight of either the Cape or the Vineyard. Martha’s Vineyard is a convenient respite full of spectacular views, quaint villages, charming gingerbread cottages, and elegant sea captains’ homes.
While Nantucket surely has its share of rich and famous, the wealthy and well-known who frequent the Vineyard seem to make more news. Some of the more popular islanders include Carly Simon, actress Patricia Neal, and actors Dan Ackroyd and Jim Belushi (his late brother John is buried on the island). The late political humorist Art Buchwald and the late news anchor Walter Cronkite also lived here. In addition, the island has been a favorite stop for former president Bill Clinton and his family and has been rumored to be part of President Barack Obama’s vacation plans.
While you might come to the island in search of film faves and politicos, your gaze will likely be diverted very quickly by the striking charm each town possesses. You may find yourself replacing your search for the stars with a tour of the island’s real celebrities: its five unique lighthouses.
If you are wedded to your automobile, you had better do some planning. Only a limited number of vehicles can make it over on the Steamship Authority ferry. You have to make a reservation several months in advance if you hope to take a car over in the summer season. Sometimes you can get a spot at the last minute on one of the first ferries out in the morning, but don’t bet your vacation on it. Also, once driving on the island, you’ll have to practice a lot of patience as intersections are crowded with pedestrians and bicyclists.
Even though Martha’s Vineyard is New England’s largest island at 10 miles long and 9 miles wide, you’ll find it easy to negotiate on foot or pedal. The island consists of six towns, each with its own personality. Some 15,000 year-round residents call the island home, but, during the busy summer months, that population swells to 100,000. Together with the town of Gosnold on Cuttyhunk Island (the only public island of the Elizabeth Island chain, just west of the Vineyard) and No Man’s Island (an uninhabited island off Aquinnah, the island’s westernmost community), the six towns of Martha’s Vineyard are part of Dukes County. FYI: You can get to Cuttyhunk Island from the Vineyard (see the Excursions section of this chapter).
The island’s northernmost town is incorporated as Tisbury, but most call it by the name of its very busy harbor Vineyard Haven. The gateway to Vineyard Haven is marked by two spits of land: West Chop, the northern tip of Tisbury and, directly across the harbor, East Chop, the northern tip of the town of Oak Bluffs. Southeast of Oak Bluffs is the town of Edgartown, which includes the island of Chappaquiddick, known locally by its nickname, Chappy. “Up island” (or sometimes “outer island”) refers to the more rural towns of West Tisbury, Chilmark, and Aquinnah. Chilmark includes the fishing village of Menemsha. The term “up island” can be confusing to visitors. Up, in this case refers to longitude. The farther west one travels, the higher the longitude—it’s a nautical thing.
You’d expect prices to be a little higher because Martha’s Vineyard is a resort but, because it’s an island, most of the goods have to be shipped over by ferry or plane, which increases the prices a bit, too. Do your essential shopping on the mainland to help save money for mementos and entertainment.
As far as the weather goes, don’t be caught off guard at night. A cool ocean breeze and dropping temperatures can demand an evening sweater, even in midsummer.