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<>I kinda need someone that will work with me without a completely ridiculous interest rate.<>Thanks in advance.
We got stuck buying our last car out of town in an emergency so we had no negotiating room. We recently renegotiated our loan and placed it with our insurance company. Give yours a call, you may be surprised. One of the loads the dealer will put on you is gap coverage. Our insurance covers that for no extra fee.
Skip the upholstery treatment, super wax, undercoat, glass coat, and majik anti-rust as well.
Choices, choices.
You miss the point, in context of the thread.
The OP is looking for an honest sales rep, and limiting the choices. I know a Ford guy who is pretty straightforward, IMO.
To drift down the path you lay....
Yes. My Fords all have various levels of import-origins.
Globalization is not to be denied at this point. I do try to make choices regarding foreign content vs. domestic content. But, don't claim to be a purist, which would be futile.
By mentioning Honda, the OP is considering using a possible very high domestic content manufacturer.
What is very hard to trace is the overall labor burden in manufacturing, and where the design and engineering money is spent.
But, one of my faves will always be the Priuses with a Bernie bumper sticker.
"I want good paying union jobs here, so I can buy a 100% foreign-sourced car."
Disconnect...
Anyway, looking for a Honda or Toyota to replace my old Nissan.
I have owned a Honda and/or Toyota since 1977, but purchased a new Hyundai a couple months ago. I have been very happy with it, so you may want to expand beyond just those two.
We got stuck buying our last car out of town in an emergency so we had no negotiating room. We recently renegotiated our loan and placed it with our insurance company. Give yours a call, you may be surprised. One of the loads the dealer will put on you is gap coverage. Our insurance covers that for no extra fee.
Skip the upholstery treatment, super wax, undercoat, glass coat, and majik anti-rust as well.
Gap insurance covers the gap between what you owe and the value of the car if you total it. If you have any equity in your new vehicle at all, you don't need it, though some dealerships may still try to sell it to you.
I was referred to Mark Langdon at Fred Anderson by multiple people, and very successfully used him myself 4 years ago. Based on some other comments here, maybe FA has a sales method that works usually.
You certainly want to have other financing (bank, etc) determined before you inquire about any car dealer's.
Pinehurst Toyota. 100% negotiated by phone and email. Beat the price offered by local dealers by several hundred dollars. They even delivered the damn thing.
RE: Financing. Absolutely agree with others - look into it before you contact any dealership. Two cars ago, manufacturer financing was zero for 36 months which beat anything else we could secure. Last vehicle USAA offered .9% - better than the dealer.
[Re: Hyundai. Leased one in 2012. VERY happy with it and loved the price. So much that we bought one in 2013. It's been recalled four times, has about 28,000 miles on it, and needed four new tires at 20,000. Sufficeit to say we bought a Toyota in 2015.]
So sorry about your accident. My husband was recently in an accident ( a dodo was speeding, lost control and ran him off the road). My husband was fine but the car was totaled. The internet was a great resource. If possible, arrange your loan with your credit union or bank, that leaves you more room for negotiation. Research factory recalls, even for new models. You can enter the VIN# of the car to check its status. Good luck!
Hmph. Had no idea about the recall options! thanks.
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